Colombo to Polonnaruwa taxi: private transfer at a fixed price

From the city the driver heads north-east on the Kandy road, the A1, as far as Ambepussa, where the A6 begins, or takes the Central Expressway section up to Kurunegala when it is quicker that morning. From Kurunegala the A6 carries on through Ibbagamuwa, Melsiripura and Galewela to Dambulla, then north-east through Inamaluwa to Habarana. At Habarana you turn east onto the A11, which runs past Minneriya and Giritale, two of the great ancient reservoirs, into Polonnaruwa. Allow about 4 hours 45 minutes for the 220 km without stops. The Dambulla cave temple is directly on the way, and Minneriya national park lies just off the A11, so a long day of sightseeing on the road is possible; tell us when you book and we will plan the times.

The hardest part is the first hour. Leaving Colombo on the A1 through Kelaniya, Kiribathgoda and Kadawatha means a continuous strip of shops, junctions and buses, worst between 07:30 and 09:30 and again in the evening. After that the country opens up and the roads empty steadily the further north you go. Kurunegala is the one town you cannot bypass, and its centre is slow in the middle of the day. Dambulla’s junction, where the A9 from Kandy meets the A6, is busy at all hours because of the wholesale vegetable market. Beyond Habarana the A11 is flat and straight but crosses elephant corridors between Minneriya and Kaudulla, and wild elephants on the road at dusk are normal here, not a rare sight. The driver slows down and keeps a respectful distance; do not ask him to stop for photos beside a bull.

This is flat road almost all the way, so the choice comes down to people, luggage and heat. The economy sedan takes three passengers with three bags. For a couple with large cases, or anyone who wants more legroom for nearly five hours, the comfort sedan is worth the difference. Families should take the Comfort van (6 seats), and groups of seven or eight the 8-seat van. Polonnaruwa is one of the hottest places on the island, and climbing back into a cold car after a stop at Dambulla is a real relief. If you are planning several days in the cultural triangle, ask about car hire with driver by the day rather than a series of single transfers. Child seats are free on request.

Polonnaruwa has a railway station on the Batticaloa line, and trains run from Colombo Fort, but they are few, slow and often late, and the station is in Kaduruwela, a tuk-tuk ride from most hotels near the ruins. Buses from Colombo go to Polonnaruwa directly or with a change in Dambulla or Habarana; they are cheap but take most of the day, with little room for suitcases. PickMe and Uber are good inside Colombo, but drivers rarely accept a trip this far. For anyone travelling with luggage, children or limited days, the private taxi is the practical way to cover the distance in a morning and still see the ruins the same afternoon.

Leave Colombo at 06:30 or after 09:30 to avoid the worst of the A1. An early start brings you to Polonnaruwa around lunchtime, in time to check in, rest through the hottest hours and cycle round the ruins from about 15:30, when the stone has cooled and the light is soft. It also keeps you off the Habarana road at dusk. The dry season here runs from about May to September, and August and September are the months of the elephant gathering at Minneriya, when an afternoon jeep safari on the way is worth considering. From about October to January the north-east monsoon brings real rain, but the tanks fill and the country turns green. A pickup or arrival between 22:00 and 05:00 adds 15%; booking more than 14 days ahead takes 5% off.